Behind the Design: Creating the Emerald Cut Signet Ring

Behind the Design: Creating the Emerald Cut Signet Ring

Every month, we release a limited-edition piece. Our core collection is all about timeless staples, but these monthly drops let us experiment with unique settings, different silhouettes, and creative ideas we might not always pursue otherwise.

For March’s drop, we introduced the Emerald Cut Signet Ring and, as always, we’re sharing openly how this ring came to life, from initial sketches all the way to launch.

How Long Does It Actually Take from Idea to Store?

People often ask us how long it takes to bring a new design to life. The short answer: about one to two months, with a lot of steps along the way:

  • We sketch it out, carefully thinking through proportions, angles, and overall style.

  • We send the sketches to our manufacturer, who creates the first sample.

  • We test it in person, checking proportions, comfort, fit, and how the diamond interacts with light.

  • We make adjustments, sometimes small tweaks, sometimes a full redesign.

  • We finalize the piece, and then schedule the photoshoot and video for our site.

Only after we're completely satisfied do we launch it. If it doesn't meet our standards, we don't release it. Simple as that.

The Signet Ring: Taking a Classic and Making It Our Own

Signet rings have been around for centuries. Originally, they were used as personal seals, engraved with family crests or initials and pressed into wax to sign documents. Over time, they evolved into everyday statement pieces.

But we wanted something a little more unexpected.

Most signet rings are solid metal, clean, bold, but also predictable. We loved the classic silhouette, but wanted to make it uniquely ours. So, we added a carefully chosen emerald-cut diamond to the center, transforming a traditional ring into something fresh.

What Makes This Design Special?

1. The Emerald Cut Itself

Emerald-cut diamonds aren't like traditional brilliant cuts. Instead of tiny, scattered sparkles, emerald cuts have sleek, parallel "step cuts" that reflect long flashes of light.

This style is elegant, but also extremely unforgiving. Imperfections (called inclusions) are far more visible, and if the diamond proportions aren't perfect, you notice immediately.

That's why we set very high standards for this ring:

  • VVS Clarity Only - Emerald cuts reveal imperfections easily. We chose VVS clarity diamonds because they’re essentially flawless to the naked eye.

  • 1.50 Length-to-Width Ratio - This gives the diamond a classic rectangular look: sleek, balanced, and sophisticated without feeling stretched or awkwardly square.

  • East-West Setting - Instead of placing the diamond vertically (the traditional way), we set it horizontally (east-west) to give the ring a subtle modern twist.

2. The Setting: Every Detail Matters

We didn’t just drop a diamond into a traditional signet ring. Every detail was intentional:

  • Transparent Sky-Light Basket - Most signet rings have a solid back, but we designed a transparent sky-light basket beneath the diamond. This open setting allows more light in, enhancing the brightness and sparkle.

  • Flush-Set for Security and Durability - Unlike prong settings that leave the edges of the diamond exposed, our flush-set design fully secures the diamond within the gold, protecting its corners and making the ring safe for everyday wear.

3. Why We Chose 14K Yellow Gold

We went with solid 14K yellow gold, not just because it looks great, but because it's the right balance between beauty and practicality:

  • Color - 14K has a softer, subtler gold hue that complements the diamond without overpowering it.

  • Durability - It’s stronger and more durable for everyday wear compared to softer, higher-karat gold.

4. Ethical Diamonds Only

Like every piece we make, March’s Emerald Cut Signet Ring features a lab-grown diamond created using renewable solar energy.

We say it all the time because it matters: lab diamonds are real diamonds, just without the environmental and ethical issues that come with mining. We refuse to compromise here: if we can't make it ethically, we won't make it at all.

The Final Result

The March Emerald Cut Signet Ring perfectly captures what we love, classic style with a modern, thoughtful twist.

Like all our monthly drops, once the month ends we're on to the next drop. If you’re into clean lines, subtle details, and designs you won't find everywhere else, this ring might just become your new daily staple.

If you have any questions, thoughts, or just want to tell us what you think we’re building in public, so hit us up anytime.

— Alex, Dev, and Jordan (the nocolor team)